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  1. #231

    Yes, I too have been a

    Yes, I too have been a victim to Toyota's malfunctioning headlamps. I do love my Prius, but for my headlamps to go out intermittently, unpredictably, and without warning is not just a flaw in the design. It becomes criminal intent when complaints have been filed yet nothing has been done by the manufacturer.
    My husband mentioned to me that he thought I had a lamp out, but when I drove the car both headlamps worked One night when returning home I noticed I was not able to see very well, but I attributed it to dirty lenses. The following day as I started my car I made notice that my headlamps were operational and was determined to clean the lenses that evening. While I was driving to work (in the dark) I rounded a corner and I once again could not see very well, so I stopped to car, kept the engine running, and checked the headlamps. One of the headlamps had gone out. I turned the control off then on again and both lamps worked. This has been a situation that has been repeated over the past week.
    Does it take a horrible accident with a death for Toyota to own the responsibility of fixing this problem. Do I really have to say: Having working headlamps is a fundamental function for driving a safe automobile.
    If it cannot be remedied then Toyota will have to let someone else come up with a safe product that is also environmentally friendly.
    I am not even going to talk about the ridiculous cost of replacement bulbs!

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  3. #232

    I've had the same problems

    I've had the same problems with my Xenon headlights on my 2006 Prius. Replaced them for big bucks after only 18 months and now one of them is "winking" and fading off and on again. Today, I got a letter from Toyota that helps some - they are issuing $150 refunds for folks that have replaced this before at a Toyota dealer; also they found their dealerships replacing a related part when it was not necessary (an ECU, or Electronic Control Unit) - for which they are issuing full refunds. Also, they have cut the price on the bulbs going forward.

  4. #233

    I have an 05 Prius w/

    I have an 05 Prius w/ 120,000 miles on it when the passenger headlight went out. It was not a HID so the dealer charge $120 to replace it, becasue they have to take out the bumper and everything else to get to it. 1 hr of labor.

    Now at 127,717 miles I had a new problem. I could not stop the engine when push the "start/stop" button on the dash. I then leave the engine on in Park for about 30 minutes. Then I can turn it off. Does this cover by warranty? does any body ran into this problem.?


  5. #234
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    May 2009

    I'm guessing with more than

    I'm guessing with more than 100,000 miles, you are out of warranty. But I would ask the dealer if it is under warranty before authorizing work on it.

    My first guess at it is that you are developing a short in the push button itself. It would be like developing a short in the ignition switch in any other car.

    In the meantime, you can try this: try pushing and holding the start/stop button down for at least 3 seconds and see if that kills the engine. Pushing and holding the button down should kill the engine even if the car is in motion. If that doesn't kill the engine, you should have it looked at right away because that's a safety feature.

  6. #235

    Whole Toyota and lights

    Whole Toyota and lights thing reminds me of how the US carmakers handled people in the 70s, early eighties...
    Anybody remember how that worked out for them?

    Well…I replaced the driver-side HID bulb on my ‘07 Prius yesterday. It was an adventure!

    To start, I'm in Central Minnesota (St. Cloud), working in an unheated garage, .in January. So I had to take a few breaks to warm up (I thought about replacing the passenger side also, but it’s still working and weather might be warmer when it goes).

    When YOU try it, borrow a couple of steel ramps. I started with nothing, then used a jack to raise the driver's side and let it down on blocks - place at the base of the driver's side wheel strut (never work under a car that is only supported by a jack – could be fatal).

    I used a 3/8-inch drive ratchet with a 10mm socket and a short extension for all the screws (except I used a Phillips head screwdriver for the two rubber bumpers on top of the bumper cover in the engine compartment).
    A small, straight screwdriver to remove the plastic pins in the wheel well and the three plastic pins at the top of the bumper cover in the engine compartment

    Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left.

    Start in the wheel well. I only partially removed the wheel well molding:
    At the bottom of the wheel well molding there is another small piece of black plastic molding. It and the bottom of the wheel well molding are held on by two screws. Remove them. Set the molding in a safe place (do a better job than I did of keeping track of which pins and screws go where and your reassembly will be easier than mine).

    Now you can see the rest of the screws and pins holding the wheel well molding in place. I only removed the ones over the front half of the tire. The tricky one was in a niche to the inside of the wheel well molding.

    Then wrestle the wheel well molding away from the bumper cover (towards the midline of the car).

    Next, go across the bottom of the bumper cover. There’s another piece of black plastic molding beneath the front of the bumper cover. Remove the visible screws – (maybe 5,6 or 7?) and set the molding in a safe place.

    There are more screws above that piece of molding. I removed another black plastic cover, adjacent to that molding so I could remove them (But I’m not sure I needed to. I think I might have been able to get those other screws just by pulling that black plastic cover down a little bit). To do just the driver’s side light, I left the screw closest to the passenger side wheel.

    Along the bottom of the bumper cover there are plastic clips. I freed the bumper cover from the clips

    Now go to the engine compartment. There’s a black plastic panel over the front of the engine compartment. It’s held on by 4 or 5 plastic pins with Phillips head slots. Put upward pressure on the panel and turn the pin slightly with a Phillips head screwdriver. They should pop up. You may need to help a little with a straight screwdriver, Set the panel aside.

    Remove the three plastic pins and two screwed-in rubber bumpers across the top of the car’s bumper cover

    Now go back to the driver’s side wheel well again…this is the SCARY part! You do NOT want to break that bumper cover!

    Grab the bumper cover at the lowest point in the wheel well. Pull down a little.. and out a little…then pop it out with your other fist (with as little force as necessary).

    I used gentle pressure to flex the bumper cover enough to get at the screws which hold the headlight fixture in place. There are three – one under the top of the bumper cover; one close to the hood hinge and the third is hiding under the bumper cover where the front of the bumper cover curves toward the driver’s side wheel. Flex the bumper cover just enough to slip your 10mm socket and short ratchet extension between the bumper cover and the fender to remove the third.

    Remove the electrical sockets that are highest on the back of the headlight fixture (running light and turns signal I think).

    Gently flex the bumper cover with one hand and remove the headlight fixture.

    Now you can easily detach the electrical socket for the headlight.

    Turn the big black plastic cover to remove it; Turn the shiny steel electrical connector to remover it; release the spring wires that secure the bulb and remover it.

    Now put in the new bulb (remember not to touch the glass of the bulb…or if you do, gently wipe clean with alcohol and a soft cloth).

    Put everything back together.

    I spent three hours at this. The bulb cost about $38 delivered on Ebay ($76 for two).

    With these instructions, and a nice warm place to work, I think you could do it in an hour or less.

    Even better Prius owners…. help each other…

    I can help you do your first, then you can help someone else do their first etc, etc.

    None of us want Toyota and the Toyota dealer making money off their mess.

  7. #236

    I need to replace my

    I need to replace my passenger bulb on 04 Prius. I have repositioned the washer reservoir, and I can reach the back of the headlight, but I can't see enough to remove bulb. What's the trick?

  8. #237

    I replaced a driver side

    I replaced a driver side headlight in my 2007 Prius last week. What takes about 53 min on any other car I have had took about 45 min. I didn't a fender off or take the fusebox out but I wished I could have.
    There is a trick.:
    1. You have to have a strong back to support you for the 45 min it takes to fiddle with it leaning over the front grill. It also helps if your hands are small and strong, not big like mine. It also helps if you are blind because most of this must be done by feel.
    2. Start by looking into the headlight to observe the position and orientation of the lamp base. Remember it.
    3. Take off the black plastic front cover-not strictly necessary, but it is the easiest part of this. Turn the retainer, I think, 1/4 turn and pull them up, then pull out the larger part - a standard auto fastener.
    4. Pull off the lamp connector
    5. Then twist the boot outer ring CCW (I think) about 1/4 turn. Remember what this position looks and feels like.
    6. Then pull the boot off the lamp. It is not easy, but that is what it does - pull off.
    7. Unclip the retaining spring on the back of the lamp. Only one side unclips and it will move out of the way and stay retained on the other.
    8. Remove bulb.
    9. Replace bulb WITHOUT touching the surface of the new bulb. This goes strickly by feel, and u can look into the headlight to see if it is oriented correctly.
    10. Replace the clip - again strickly by feel as u cannot see any of this thru your hand.
    11. Orient the boot in approximately the right position and push the end onto the bulb base.
    12. Place the outer ring of the boot in position (very tricky - this took the longest to get right) Once in position rotate it back to the lock position. Note, make sure it is fully seated before you turn - It won't break it but you'll just have to repeat.
    13. place connector onto bulb contacts.
    14. Replace the black plastic cover.

    Good luck.

  9. #238

    2007 Prius...same tune

    2007 Prius...same tune here...both sides go out intermittently. Got the letter from Toyota too. Lost my job last year and can't afford to pay the huge price to replace the light bulbs! Hubby is not mechanically inclined in any way and is 65 years old...likely would not want to even attempt the task.

    I think we will try the recommendation of calling the cust experience line as recommended above and see if we can get any satisfaction!

  10. #239

    I literally just changed my

    I literally just changed my girlfriends headlights on her 2008 Prius package 2 in 8 minutes WITHOUT removing the bumper. The HID lights are just a scam from toyota but if you are lucky and have the headlights that are still consumer friendly, this is REALLY EASY. The hardest part of the entire job was replacing the boot on the driver side light. let me tell you, I am not a small handed person and tihs would be alot easier if i had small hands, but it can be sone by large men. First, remove the wiring harness from theback of the headlight. This may be a little tough, but can be wiggled off. It does not have a clip or button to push so the harness just pulls off. Second and the most tricky part on both sides is to completely remove the boot from the light before removing the headlight. THIS JUST POPS OFF AND ON. The problem is that it is a little tough because it is a very tight seal. removing the boot gives you very easy access to the clip that holds ths light in the bezel. To remove the clip there is a small loop on the top side of the bulb, on the passenger side OF BOTH LIGHTS that you press and pull it up. the light will come right out after this clip is removed. Simply put the new light back in and do the above in reverse. INSURE that you put the boot back on very tightly. (For the driver side, you need to remove the cap to the fuse box. It is held on by 3 clips. 2 on the rear and 1 in the front. For the passenger side you have to remove the right side of the upper shroud [one push pin] and a peice of intake tube [another push pin].) Learning how to do this WILL save you $200 because that is Toyota's minium labor for this project. I do not know, but it could be similar to do the HID lights. The lights I changed lasted fro 100,000 miles and the passenger side wnet out. I reccomend changing both though and this is why I did the driver side as well. horror stories I have heard and read about the HID lights is that they go out at 50,000 miles or less and the bulbs alone are very expensive. The cost of the bulbs in my application was $20 adn the time was less than ten minutes. Questions e mail me at timdwallace@gmail.com

  11. #240

    For people using the method

    For people using the method - not removing the bumper cover ( I gave this a good try, but couldn't do it).

    In retrospect, there was no reason the wiring harness needs to be removed - When you turn the black plastic cover off, It can stay attached.

    If I hadn't tried to take of that first plastic connector, maybe I could have done it this blind way

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