Bio works well in engines with an injector pump. All the talk one sees about the "grease" cars all are older diesels which can burn pure vegetable oil. It does have to be heated up to thin it out before the engine can accept it. Most of the 100% Bio burners start on diesel until the oil tank can be heated with hot water from the engine cooling system. So, any diesel made up until about 2002 can burn most oils and bio fuels.

However, a few years ago most diesels started using a common rail injection system, much like the ones on most modern cars. The system basically runs a high pressure line to the injectors. The injectors are electrically operated and open on signal. They don’t like Bio as much. If you have been running standard diesel, which builds up sludge, and then run Bio, which acts a cleaner, it can clog up the filters and injectors.

Daimler - Chrysler has addressed this with new diesels they are marketing. The new Jeep Liberty we have is a Common Rail Diesel (if you see a Liberty with a “CRD” badge on the tailgate in lieu of the 3.7L badge, then it is a diesel). It came from the factory with BD5 (5%) and is advertised in the brochure as Bio-Diesel compatible. However, the information for my Dodge truck, which has the Cummins Diesel, does not recommend or say not to burn bio. It only says any damage from running bio would not be covered under warranty. Evidently there are some caustic elements in the bio fuels that can eat away at the seals and cause internal corrosion of the fuel system. Also, as Bio tends to clean out the gunk, this can cause the clogs.

If you buy Bio-Diesel from a gas station in lieu if the homemade stuff, it typically has the correct additives in it that prevent the problems. Here in the upstate some of the stations sell “Willie-Bio”, which is a product that Willie Nelson distributes to help the American farmers. We run BD20 in our Jeep and BD2 in our Dodge. The bio seems to work ok with no reduction in mileage.

South Carolina