Honda Civic '06 maintenance schedule
Created January 6, 2006, at 11:58 pm by Anonymous
Just got an 06 Civic Hybrid...
The dealer said that for oil changes, I need OW-20 oil. I'm not much of an expert on this and am wondering I could find it at a non-Honda dealer if I went to one for an oil change. Does anyone know? In a pinch, could a different type of oil be used?
I appreciate your help!



5 years ago
I currently have 5460 miles on my 06 HCH and the service indicator light hasn't turned on yet. I read in the manual that it'll turn on at 15% oil life left, usually about 10K miles.
My dealership recently informed me that I should get an oil change now, because they need to be serviced every 5000 miles in spite of the indicator light not turning on. Is that right?
And how come older models of civic hybrids require religious maintenance at like every 3750 miles while the new 06 model is whenever the service (wrench) light turns on?
Should I really trust the indicator light only to tell me when and how the car should be serviced, or am I responsible for other maintenance items to keep the warranty valid?
5 years ago
Good for You to read the manual, Drew. I have 7035mi on my car. Today the oil went to 15% & the wrench light came on I freaked out-(I kept meaning to find time to get the oil changed).
A call to the dealer was reassuring, and now it is getting an early 10,000mi service, Tomorrow. I'll let you know any useful bits of info.
Have You noticed that cool air blows out of the vents regardless of auto being in off? I am finding this annoying. I don't want to turn on the heat to compensate for the cool air.
Besides that I Love My Honda Hybrid.
Lisa
5 years ago
the cold air your getting is prolly because you have air coming from outside. if this happens when the car is moving just hit the button to the right of the a/c button, the one with pic of a car with curved arrow. this will only allow air to circulate within the car and no air will blow in from outside through the vents.
5 years ago
Drew
My 2004 HCH only needs its oil to be changed every 5k miles. As far as the maintainance, my 04 has a "service soon" light too.
BUT, the dealership sets that light/computer when they change my car's oil (in my 04, I can reset it myself if I wanted too). As I get 15% within the 5k mile mark since the last oil change/reset, the light comes on when I start the car, and it gradually stays on longer until I definitley need an oil changes, then its always on.
Otherwise, I'd trust the book over the light just to be safe.
5 years ago
My dealer told me it should be serviced at 5K... or when the oil life is 5%. I own a 2006 for 2 months. Very pleased with overall performance. Superb car.
5 years ago
I used to own a 2003 HCH and the maintenance schedule said to change the oil every 10,000 miles in normal driving conditions, but the dealer recommended 5000-mile oil changes. At first, I split the difference and got the oil changed at 6700, 13,400 and 20,000 miles, but started to do the 5000 miles to make myself feel better.
I just bought a used 2006 with just over 10,000 miles, did not see the info on the maintenance minder at first, asked the dealer, and again was told to have the oil changed every 5,000 miles. They also gave me their own maintenance schedule for things every 10,000 miles, so I paid $105 for the 10,000-mile maintenance, which included an oil additive. Mind you, the owners manual says that no oil additives should be used.
I am beginning to question the dealer's motives. They tell me that the owners manual does not take into account real-life driving. I am leary, though, of spending $100 at 10,000 miles, $200 at 20,000 miles, and $300 at 30,000 miles PLUS oil changes in-between at 15 and 25 thousand.
This time around, I am going by the maintenance minder. I have 6000 miles since my oil change and am at 50% oil life. I'll let you know how it goes changing my oil when it falls below 10%.
5 years ago
My wife took my 06 Civic Hybrid to the dealership today to get the oil change because the service department informed us that only THEY could do it. Well, I showed up in time for my appointment and after waiting an hour, the service people slowly made their way to my car. All of the service customer service people seemed lazy and angry to be at work.
Nevertheless, they finally changed the oil, but failed to reset the oil percentage indicator. :mad:
How sorry is a service department that not only cannot keep the appointment times, but forget to do something as important as resetting the indicator?! Anyways, that will be the last time we go there.
Now to my question: Does anyone know how to reset the indicator back to 100%? The manual says to bring it to the service department, but they are obviously too incompetent to do this. Can someone help with some info? Thanks!
Boonedoggle
5 years ago
Boonedoggle,
On page 182 of the 06 Civic Hybrid manual you will see the following instructions on how to reset the Engine Oil Life Display back to 100%:
1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
2. Press the SEL/RESET button repeatedly until the engine oil life is displayed.
3. Press the SEL/RESET button for about 10 seconds. The engine oil life and the maintenance item code will blink.
4. Press the SEL/RESET button for more than 5 seconds. The maintenace item code will disappear and the engine oil life will reset to 100%.
Hope this helps.:D
5 years ago
I just got my oil changed at 6700 miles, I waited until the car's light went on (the one that looks like a wrench.) Between the book and the dealer I trust the book. I have found that the dealers are better with regular Honda's but that they really are not all that well informed about the Hybrid. The best they can do is remember to use the specific oil the Hybrid requires instead of regular oil.
5 years ago
What the dealers tell you concerning the maintenance minder is irrelevant. Just follow the book as written by Honda. The dealers never know best.
As a matter of fact, a dealership that states you should not follow the maintenance minder is a bad dealership. Please report them to your Regional Honda Office and include references to the names of the people at the dealership who made such statements. Meanwhile please do get another dealership.
The HCH-2 uses a series of cooperative algorithms that take the commulative average RPM's, vehicle mileage since last service, environment temperature ranges, average internal temperatures and average trip durations (among a few lesser ones) to derive the oil's life percentage.
Honda introduced the maintenance minder on the HCH in order to ensure that the vehicle maintenance is performed at the right time.
Please note that the first oil should not be changed anytime before the maintenance minder calls for its change. The factory oil contains additives and conditioners that are critical to the engine's long life. Honda is VERY clear about this and a dealership that does not follow the maintenance specifications for these cars is a poorly educated and trained dealership.
Cheers;
MSantos
5 years ago
12-29: It seems that there are a lot of Honda dealerships that are more attuned to the culture and philosophy of Henry Ford and Louis Chevrolet than Soichiro Honda. The ones who advise customers to ignore Honda's maintenance minder should be called stealerships. How do customers report them to Honda management and what is the likelihood that Honda will do anything about their unscrupulous behavior?
5 years ago
Contact the Honda customer service number printed in your vehicle's documentation. Alternatively you can write a letter to them clearly outlining the incidents and the dealership personnel involved in the incidents.
There have been times where Honda has penalized the dealerships in a veriety of ways including the forcing of the dealership's closure or change in its management.
Cheers;
MSantos
5 years ago
It varies from car to car. Some cars will reach 15% in less than 5000 miles. Others may go as high as 12000 miles or more. It all depends on how the car is driven.
Cheers;
MSantos
5 years ago
This information is only applicable to the 2006 and 2007 Civic Hybrid.
Because the dealership loves you and your business (cough: money). Also because they may apply that rule to all traditional gas-only vehicles.
In any case, DO NOT listen to them. Instead, follow the vehicles "Maintenance Minder" and your user's manual as you are supposed to do.
Filling your tires with an alternate gas offers little if any advantage. Conceptually (and in principle) it may make sense but the benefits are non-existent in regular driving regimes. Some folks will claim it is yet another money making gimmick - I tend to agree.
You can fill them from a standard pump.
Honda dealerships typically offer refill blades for very competitive prices. However, the site you mention (and a few others) can be the best way to get these online. I prefer to always get Honda genuine part and these sites carry them... So, pick what you like best.
No pinstipes on mine. I hate those things as they are hard to manage and also interfere with the seasonal paint sealant I apply.
The head rests have been a perenial source of discussion but I doubt Honda will change them. They claim the ergonomics and design are required to increase the safety of the occupants. Some people will order Accord headrests and replace the OEM HRs with great success. But since the head rests are part of the active restraint system I could see possible liability issues emerging if you get involved injury causing accident.
They offer a trunk tray for the 2007 HCH which also fits the 2006. So ask them for the Honda part for a 2007 HCH.
Cheers;
MSantos
5 years ago
Thank you so much Msantos!
I do agree wholeheartedly about the pinstripes.. they are a bother. My dealership already had them on the car and normally I would not get them because they are just stickers and stickers peel... :mad:
I am SO happy there is an 07 trunk tray! YAY! You are the best!!!
As far as the Purigen thing goes, I am not sure why, but my car came that way pre-purigen-ized. Poor thing... But thank you for letting me know :)
I do ok with my headrest as long as I do not put my hair up. I have finally found the perfect position... it required months of adjusting both the tilt of the chair and the height, and now its alright.
Thank you again for all your help!!
:D
5 years ago
My dealer said that the car will not need an oil change until the oil life on the car reaches 15%. My car reached 15% oil life just shy of 7,000 miles
5 years ago
Laurie,
Any reputable mechanic or oil change shop should carry the 0w20 oil. Just make sure that it is API SM 0w20. That way you can be assured that it meets Honda's specifications. If you do need to use something else in a pinch, try to use a 5w30. With that being said, I would recommend that you change that oil soon there after once you find a suitable 0w20 that you can use.
4 years ago
You're kidding, right? Man, NOBODY carries this stuff except Honda dealers. I have heard that a couple of the quick-change places in Phoenix will order it if you pre-pay, but since they can't get it in bulk, it's like pulling teeth.
4 years ago
My sticker says to fill my tires to only 32 front and rear.... I have read on here people putting upper 40s and even low 50s.
Is mine so low because it is Purigen? or because I am in Fla and well... never encounter snow...?:confused:
4 years ago
32lbs is the inflation that offers the most comfortable ride. However, it is also the inflation that is closest to the borderline of safety. Any inflation below 32 will start causing poor handling and accellerated tire wear.
Conversely, the higher the pressures the lower the tire wear and the handling also improves. The side effect is a harsher ride. Purigen or any other gas is irrelevant because what matters is the effective pressure the tire is running at.
Most people who drive hybrid vehicles for efficiency choose a slightly higher pressure (not too high though) than what the sticker mandates. The sticker should be seen as the safe minimum pressure you should run your tires at.
Most of us pick 2 to 4 lbs lower pressure than the Maximum tire pressure the tire is rated for. You''l' see the max tire pressure rating written on each tire.
Please note: Tires do not blow up because of higher pressures. Instead they blow up because of un-inflation. An under inflated tire heats up faster and thread separation occurs leading to a desintegration of the tire - which obviously is not good.
Cheers;
MSantos
4 years ago
Thank you so much MSantos,
My tires say 44, and I checked them last night at they are at 31. I knew something was not quite right, they just look so low. When I get home I will air them up to about 36, that seems like a good compromise?
4 years ago
31 psi is way too low.
Setting them at 36psi is a good start. As you get more confident and you see your mileage improve you may take them to 36 rear and 38 front, then 38 rear and 40 front, then 40 rear and 42 front ... as you see fit.
Taking small steps like this will allow you to find the best balance between comfort and fuel economy. Be warned though, the higher pressures give you ever increasing fuel savings and those of us who try them never want to go back. ;) :D
I know folks who have taken their tires way beyond 50psi and get wicked fuel economy figures... I call that crazy though... those pressures are not for me. :)
Cheers;
MSantos
3 years ago
I have a 06 Honda Civic that had terrible road noise, but was getting 39 mpg. I installed 150 lbs. of Dynamat and changed my tires to a high performance tire. I am now getting about 28 mpg.
What in the heck happend? The road noise is gone, but so is my gas mileage. Help!
3 years ago
Wow, 150lbs is almost the weight of the hybrid system !!!
Still, 28 mpg is too low. Heck 39 is too low for most of us. But then again it appears you chose it to be that way... Correct?
A high performance tire is not for the HCH, ever. The HCH is a low pollution, fuel efficient platform and you should use LRR tires instead as its design intended. Simply put, high performance have too much road friction and that acts more like a boat anchor that does not leverage the efficiencies of the power train. Add the added weight and the loss in FE is almost justifiable.
Now to have bought high performance implies that your driving may not take into account the car's features and design mission, right? Do you drive spiritedly ? :)
Please drop by www.cleanMPG.com and intro yourself. The folks there will certainly help you get the most FE from your HCH... that is, if you are willing to learn. :)
Cheers;
MSantos
3 years ago
MSantos,
In an earlier post, you said to work up the tire pressure to 40 in the rear and 42 in the front. Is that where you would recommend as a balance between FE, safety and a comfortable ride? Do the dealers have a problem doing this for us if we ask them to at the oil change?
In the Manitoba area, what exterior air temperature would you start removing the pipe insultation? I only have the top row around the "H" logo blocked, as the left side of the lower grill already looked blocked by Honda.
Tried to check out the www.cleanMPG.com website. Where on the site do I go to find a forum like this one on the HCHII? I am impressed by your l/100km numbers this past winter. I was around the 7.8-8.8L/100km mark.
Thanks.
3 years ago
My 2006, has 35,000, and can't find my manual, how do I find out what maintenance is needed, that I can perform?
Also I have been changing my oil every 3500 miles, can't change old ways, I guess. I read about taxi's in NY, they found that cabs that changed oil every 3000 miles, when rebuilding the engine, they had much less wear on all moving parts.
3 years ago
Peggy, many dealers have a problem doing that for their customers on request. The best we can do is ask them not to touch the tires and instead you watch the tire pressure yourself.
When the ambient temps rise above 0C I start removing the pipe insulation one row at a time. The objective is to ensure that the engine temperature does not rise much above 90C. If the engine temp does rise above 90 then the radiator cooling fans will turn on and that is the give away that the engine is too warm. I keep my eye on the various temperature readings with a device called "ScanGauge". It is worth every penny.
While at CleanMPG, just intro yourself in the "Start your journey here" section and we'll take care of the rest. While our underlying objective is to help everyone regardless of what they drive, you'll see that we have the strongest and most capable HCH-2 community anywhere. Also, do not forget to read up on Tarabell's article, which happens to be the HCH-2 bible for anyone serious about knowing their HCH better.
Cheers;
MSantos
3 years ago
Ramzak:
There are no explicit change intervals for the HCH-2. Instead, the oil change should occur as indicated by the vehicle's maintenance minder.
You can get the HCH-2 manual online here:
https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/logon.asp
Changing the oil more frequently than indicated by the instruments is literally a waste of oil and "your" money for no measurable benefit at all.
The old ways actually hurt the vehicle's engine particularly during the engine break-in period since the factory oil needs to remain in the vehicle until the minder reads 15% or less.
As long as you use the recommended 0W20 oil, you should be able to get anywhere from 7,000 miles to roughly 12,000 miles out of an oil change.
Cheers;
MSantos
3 years ago
Wow - great website! I'm glad I found it!
I have an '06 Honda Civic [not hybrid though - hope you'll accept me in your community] and I love it, but I am experiencing some major changes related to gas mileage.
On a full tank of gas [fill up somewhere between 10 1/2 gal. to 11 gal.] I would get about 320 - 340 miles. This started changing about 6 months ago - it went down to as low as 220 - average is 250. I went to the dealership [never again, especially that one] and they told me my front brakes are wearing, I need an oil change and new tires. All this for the incredible amount of $1,500. What a deal, huh?! Needless to say, I left without looking back..
I chose a Goodyear rep close to my house - had my front brakes fixed, changed tires [alignment, balance included, obviously], changed oil, everything. The tires I had put on are Goodyear Assurance TripleTred. Unfortunately my gas mileage problem is still there. I went to a different Honda dealership and told them what I had done, but my mileage was still low. They couldn't figure out what the problem was, so they just told me this will go down as the total mileage on my car increases. Right now, I'm at 56,700 miles.
Anyone have any input?
Thanks,
YYZ
3 years ago
YYZ;
The best recommendations that I can offer for you will not be much different from what we would offer to most hybrid users. Here are the things you MUST do to improve your fuel economy.
1- Pump up your tires !!! This means pressing them up just shy of their Max pressure rating by a few PSI (you see this on the sidewall of each tire).
2- Use the DWB and DWL techniques. I'll be happy to explain what these are if you don't know.
3- Avoid the rat race (heavy traffic) if possible. Choosing alternates routes with less traffic often helps. Avoid frequent accelerations and stops especially the abrupt kind.
3- Keep the speed down. Any speed above 60 MPH is going to hurt a lot in ANY car.
4- When accelerating keep the RPM below 2000-2500. The lower the better.
5- Use 0W20 oil at your next oil change!!
6- Since your car does not the hybrid instrumentation I suggest you buy a Scangauge ASAP. Right now you are driving blind-folded. When you get a Scangauge you'll literally start seeing your fuel economy like never before. It is worth every penny.
If you can get all of the above nailed down your car should be good for 40+ MPG for starters. As you get better, 50MPG tanks should be in your horizon especially if you use the more advanced techniques.
Cheers;
MSantos
3 years ago
Can regular Civics use OW20?
Also, I agree, the instrumentation in the Hybrid is really instrumental (haha) in obtaining better mileage. It's a constant education on what improves your mileage.
One marginal side benefit: you get to know which way the supposedly level roads in your neighbourhood are sloping.
3 years ago
Yes, all 1.8 Liter engines of the regular 8th gen civics can use 0W20 without any issues whatsoever. :)
I agree on all the rest... :D
Cheers;
MSantos
3 years ago
MS,
Thanks for your response. I assume by DWL & DWB, you mean Driving w/ Load & Driving without Brakes. I have heard the term before, but I'm not sure I fully understand the technique - could you please explain a bit more?
Regarding the Scangauge, I found this.. http://www.scangauge.com/features/
Does this basically just help me see my car's readings _or_ save gas too?
I must admit, I do drive over 60mph, on the highway I usually go up to 80mph - 85mph, but I have always driven the car like that.
I will though follow your suggestions and see if something changes. Thanks again!
Greetings,
YYZ
3 years ago
YYZ:
You'll find the formal definitions of these techniques at www.cleanMPG.com (BTW, feel free to drop by)... but I will try to give you the best explanation I can:
DWB: (Driving with buffers or Driving without brakes) simply means that while the car is in motion you'll do your best to have quite a bit of room between your vehicle and the others in front of you. This is also called anticipatory driving as you are giving yourself a buffer not only between yourself and other drivers but also between yourself and other elements on the road such as traffic lights, traffic patterns etc. The point is to avoid stopping as m uch as possible and to conserve as much of the momentum as possible.
DWL: (Driving with load) this means taking advantage of the residual load that every engine has when running at its lowest RPM and using it to propel the car with the lowest fuel usage possible. For example: Instead of keeping the speed when going up a short hill by raising the RPM (which is typical of the cruise control) you try to keep the FE as steady as possible while bleeding the speed. In doing so your speed will fall but the idea is to let it fall slowly by adding minute amounts of throttle pressure. Again, the Scangauge is instrumental for non-hybrids when driving with load because you can "lock in" the desired FE instead of locking in the speed and needlessly paying the price.
You car is good for 40+... easily, but by driving it at those high speeds you'll never meet the rated EPA numbers. In the end, it is just simple physics and the reality is that every car gets badly hit when going above 60 MPH. The higher the speed, the worse the hit will be.
Cheers;
MSantos
3 years ago
Several times I have seen people asking for maintenance schedules, but have not noticed anyone mentioning the Honda Owner site:
https://www.ahm-ownerlink.com/
Once you join up, for free of course, you can access many informative things there including maintenance schedule. I find it to be a very easy site to use and being run by Honda. expect the information to be correct. Anyone else use this site?
3 years ago
You are wrong about the first oil change. The factory oil issue is irrelevant, they do not put anything magical in it that cannot be had from any good major brand oil that also has the appropriate additives and conditioners.
Actually you have it completely backwards, even with today's great engine tolerances the first oil change is the one with which the engine was still breaking in and will have more large particulate matter in it. With subsequent oil changes the period is more appropriately determined by the driving conditions.
There is NEVER a time when changing the oil is worse than not changing it, providing the right, quality oil is used, but it will be a waste of money to do so excessively - 5K miles is not necessarily a short interval though, if it were mostly city driving then as a matter of convenience it would not be so unreasonable to go ahead and have oil changed while the car was at a shop for some other reason.
3 years ago
JC:
The advice we offer in this forum echoes Honda's own recommendations for the HCH-II and is consistent with the service directives published by the Honda engineering group regarding this model.
In the simplest of terms, the basis of Honda's recommendations are supported by the vehicle's maintenance minder and any inferences to traditional maintenance cycles are hardly helpful for HCH-2 owners. If anything, Honda has openly and explicitly warned against replacing the factory oil before it reaches 15% or before 1 full year of service.
Perhaps you could provide some sort of empirical affirmation that can support your assertions?
Cheers;
MSantos
3 years ago
I'm currently only getting 39 mpg in my '06 Civic Honda Hybrid. Bought new, I started at 43 mpg. Only has 8,500 miles clocked. I am going to check out the CleanMPG site to see how I can improve this (in addition to various recommendations in this thread). But has anyone considered using the MPG Caps (FFI product) in the gasoline? I've read pros and cons (cons mostly attributed to imposters of course), but nothing about pros/cons in a gasoline hybrid vehicle. Anyone?...Anyone?...
3 years ago
Hi ReneeB;
Please to drop by CleanMPG and let's work on real improvements.
Please do yourself a favor and avoid any Gas additives or gimmicks of any kind. As it is, your car can give you truly astounding mileage without any snake oils at all. Lets work on that first and... please save your money. ;)
Cheers;
MSantos
3 years ago
The only thing that sucks about the site is the civic hybrid manual is INCOMPLETE. It only shows the table of contents.
3 years ago
Somewhere, some time back, I managed to find the *full* pdf manual, without all the links nonsense. It's referred to as "unlinked", and is around 6 megs. I've been looking again recently, just to provide a link to people, but have not been able to find it.
2 years ago
idiot
1 year ago
I beleive the wrong grade of oil was put in my hybrid. It was 5w20. Is that a problem? Isn't the right grade 0w20?
1 year ago
Just discovered this site. Not a lot of recent activity, hope the experts still visit it every so often.
I have a 2007 HCH. Been changing the oil and filter every 6000 miles, oil life generally 30%. It's got 36,000 miles on it now. I never paid attention/noticed if the maintenance codes showed in the display (which means I did not read the manual fully).
Q - Could the B2 or B3 code have appeared before now and were 'erased' when the dealer who changed the oil reset it to 100% ?
Q - What sort of mileage would you expect to accumulate for the B2,3,4, or 5 codes to appear? Most driving is So. Calif freeway. The dealer wants me to shell out for a Major Service, said it should have been done at 30,000. I can't believe coolant, brake and tranny fluids have to be changed at this low a mileage.
Thanks for your reply.
1 year ago
Hi Derek. Reading between the lines of your post, it sounds like your dealer is ignoring the Maintenance Minder, and pushing *their* mileage (and time?) based schedule.
As long as they're at least adhering to the requirements of the Maintenance Minder schedule, it's ok, but: part of their motivation is likely:
to get more money out of you.
I'd suggest to do what you can to get back to the Maintenance Minder service style. Let it run down to 15% (you can go down to 0%, personally I prefer to act at 15%), and get those items done.
Or, you might consider doing at least some of the service items yourself. Advantages are mainly that you'll save some money, and avoid the inconvenience of having the car tied up at the dealership.
Bare minimum, I'd change your own filters (cabin and engine), something that comes up maybe every 25~30K miles. Though, the labour charge likely lsn't much, if any, for that. At least it shouldn't be, there is nothing to it.
Anyway, *do* start reading through your manual. Here's a current online source for the '09 Owners Manual, which is more-or-less the same:
http://www.freepdfmanual.com/2009/01/03/honda-civic-hybrid-navigation-an...
This is the full, linked pdf. Not sure why they're not readily available from Honda, but this is one source.
Regarding the codes:
B:
First off, "A" is engine oil change *only*, ie: not engine oil and filter change. You do *not* need to change the oil filter at "A" service. Check your receipts. are they dinging you for an oil filter at *every* oil change?
Also, how many quarts/liters are they charging you for? Oil change *only* (no filter change), the quantity to bring it to the full mark is 3.0 liters (3.2 qt). *With* filter change, the qtys. are 3.2 liter or 3.4 qt., due to the extra oil in the filter being poured out.
But, it's not chiselled in stone that the oil must be at the full mark. Doing my own, I like to set the level a little below the full line, closer to halfway between the low and full marks. As long as you're not losing oil, this is actually the sweet spot. With/without filters changes, I routinely use 3.0 liters. FYI, I remove the oil filter at every change, but at A service I just empty it out and reinstall (re-use).
If you do your own changes you obviously have more control over this. The dealership does not want to deal with fractions of bottles, it's a hassle to document. My experience with dealership oil changes was: they routinely put in 4.0 liters (and charged me for it), and virtually *refused* to not change oil filter at service "A".
They have an ingrained culture of "second guessing" Honda's schedule, and it's very hard to budge them. For me the solution was simple: walk away. I *enjoy* doing my own routine maintenance, and like the control and cost savings. I still rely on the dealership for the more serious and involved items, but you're within your rights to do the mundane items yourself. As long as you are reasonably dilegent and competent, you will be ok.
So, "B" is every *other* oil change, in my experience, and includes the oil filter change. It also includes front/rear brake inspection, tire rotation, and inspection of suspension/exhaust components, and general top-up of fluids. Some of this is important, some, well: do you really want to pay a mechanic $60+ dollars an hour to top up your windshield washer fluid...?
BTW, tire rotation and brake inspection *should* go hand-in-hand. The tires come off for brake inspection, so it is the perfect time to also rotate them (swap them around).
Anyway, in my experience, "A" service comes up at around 9000km (about 6000 miles?), and after another 9000km it is "B" service. Usually "A" service is just that, no extra numbers, but not always, I think. It's usually "B" service with extra numbers.
Ok, back to codes:
1: Rotate tires: typically at every B service, say 18000km
2: Cabin/Engine Filter replacement: Maybe every other B service, say 36000km (check them yourself, more frequent replacement might be warranted, especially with the engine filter)
3: Transmission fluid change, also every 3600km I think, per above. This is one service I jump the gun on, I replace mine *yearly*, my personal preference. Do *not* get suckered into doing a "flush", ie: 3~4 changes of fluid. This is *only* needed if the fluid got contaminated, say by accidentally putting in motor oil (don't ask).
4: Replace Spark Plugs and check valve clearance: the interval for this is *very* long, not sure, but would speculate over 100,000km.
Likely the spark plugs *will* survive that long. The stock plugs are very pricey, and very durable. I pulled ours at around 50000km, they looked pristine, apart from a little coating, which I removed with carb cleaner. Never brush, sandblast or attempt to adjust the gap with these, it will damage them.
The valve clearance should be checked sooner, imho, but will probably "survive" to the Maintenance Minder's mileage. Still, I would do them sooner, actually much sooner. My opinion: around 20000~30000km is a good time, once the engine has fully "settled". I checked ours around 50000km, and almost all were out-of-spec, on the loose side. Not distastrously so, but worth correcting. Here's some info on how I did it:
http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17946
5: Replace Engine Coolant: I'd follow the MM for this. Not sure when it comes up, maybe every 80000~100000kms? We got a block heater put in, and this necessitated a coolant change way too early.
IMHO, block heaters should be factory installed in all cars, both to fuel economy (if you use it...), improve engine life and to avoid wasting coolant. Also, to avoid customers getting gouged with after sales installs at the dealership, and problems associated with incompetent installs...
Likely the only way this will happen is through legislation though.
1 year ago
I just took my 2006 Honda civic hybrid in because my brakes were squeaking. it has 44000 miles on it. They called me back and told me i needed two new tires, and alignment plus a new cabin filter and engine filter. That would have been about $500 more dollars of work. the cabin filter they wanted me to pay $99 for can be bought online for $17!!!!!!!! and the $102 tires are $75 online!!!! nice to know Honda tried to screw me. only going there for oil changes (since they are only $33) from now on. indicator lights or not i'll have someone i trust look at car, not honda. they are liars
1 year ago
I just recently purchased both the engine and cabin filters, retail, through our dealership parts department, they were $18.84 and $36.78 respectively, in Canadian dollars, and typically our prices are a bit *higher*.
Assuming this is a Honda dealership you're going to, if it's at all possible I would check out another dealership, and/or contact corporate Honda. Spell out the what/when/how much of your experience, and keep your cool. It does sound like they are price gouging and pushing unneeded services.
Honda's retail parts prices are set, and fairly steep to begin with. But this definitely is out of line, and points to an unscrupulous dealership. My personal experience is that a dealership's service department can swing from good through indifferent to bad, depending on the management. There are conscientious, honest (well semi-honest) service departments, but they do vary...
1 year ago
I change the oil when it tells me to, it works good for me.
1 year ago
I have a new 2010 Honda Civic coupe. Sometime in the next month, I'm taking it on a driving trip of about 5,000 miles. I don't want to stop for service at a strange dealership, etc. in another state. Should I get an oil change ahead of time (have driven only about 700 miles so far) or should I figure it'll be fine for 5,000 miles? Confused, because with my old Accords, I had maintenance schedules in the manual and now there's nothing in the Civic manual that lists miles. Do I just trust the wrench to come on? But I don't want it to come on while I'm far from home. Help, someone? Thank you. Gratefully, Confused Driver
1 year ago
I would not jump the gun, just deal with it when the Maintenance Minder comes on. As long as you're in some sort of town there's likely a Honda dealership: check online to verify.
When you push your sel/reset button (just quick presses, not press and hold) it cycles the information display (lcd display directly under the tachometer). One of the displays is the oil life. It starts at 100%, and steps down in 10% increments till 20%, then 5% increments.
At 15% the wrench symbol will come on, and persist each time you start the car, untill you press (momentarily) the sel/reset button. But the owners manual stipulates you still have to zero percent, if you like.
Personally I change the oil when it hits 15%, but you don't have to. In our experience it get's to 15% roughly every 9000km's (around 6000 miles).
Again, I would wait till the MM tells you: an early change will mess up the schedule. Also note, I believe the first oil is special, tailored for the break-in period, and it's likely bad to change it out early.
Also, if the maintenance minder says service "A", this does *not* include an oil filter change. In my experience you have to fight to avoid filter change at dealership. It's no big deal, you can cave in and let them change the filter. When I do my own service "A" changes, I take the filter off, pour out the oil and re-install it, fwiw.
BTW, I didn't know there was a civic coupe hybrid ;)
43 weeks ago
I purchased a 2010 Civic Hybrid in October and really love it so far. I have already had the oil changed once and will need to again in early summer. When I had the vehicle in for the first oil change the advisor at the desk told me that the vehicle should have something done to the brakes every other oil change. I think she said it had something to do with the regeneration system. No price for that service was discussed and in the mean time I have been thinking it sounded rather fishy. Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
21 weeks ago
Try setting the temperature a little warmer when "ON", then turn "Off" vents.
20 weeks ago
read the manual....I dont think ANYONE here has read the manual. Hold the SEL/RESET button and start the car while continuing to hold the button. It will reset in about 5-10 seconds. FYI...an owners manual comes with every new vehicle :)
12 weeks ago
Dear Sir\ Madam,
I bought a Hybrid Honda Civic 2006 a year ago. the battery gave me 80% at the computer check.But now I face a problem which is the charging of the battery. It gives a full charging quickly and discharging as well. sometimes it shows normal charging and discharging. Please advise me soon since I live in Jordan and there aren't too many dealers I can trust. I love my Honda. Best regards
12 weeks ago
Dear Sir\ Madam,
I bought a Hybrid Honda Civic 2006 a year ago. the battery gave me 80% at the computer check.But now I face a problem which is the charging of the battery. It gives a full charging quickly and discharging as well. sometimes it shows normal charging and discharging. Please advise me soon since I live in Jordan and there aren't too many dealers I can trust. I love my Honda. Best regards
4 weeks ago
i have Honda civic hybrid model 2006 i wanted to know that witch gear oil to put in to change it CVT or ATF plzz tel me i love my Honda
Post a new comment