Escape Hybrid Operation
Created February 17, 2005, at 12:23 pm by Anonymous
I would like to hear from others who own or hear of operational performances of Escape Hybrids. This would help determine if someone else is having the same experiances or problems.
Examples:
My gas guage drops real fast to half a tank, but when I fill up at that point, it only takes 4 gallons or so.
I can get better MPG than the stated 36/31 by making the thing run on electric more often and backing off the accelerator so the trans can shift to higher gearing to lower the RPM. This helps to stop the high revs. during harder acceleration.
My ignition switch seems to lock up sometimes and I have to jig it a little to start up. I also found that you just bump the switch and the computer takes over and starts the Escape.
The torque of electric motor has broke the right front tire lose while merging at about 10 MPH. I was very surprized.
When I'm stopped with my foot on the brake and let off but need to apply it again right away, sounds and feels like the electic motor binds a little.
Anyone care to share about issues like these.
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6 years ago
Did you buy this new?
6 years ago
My Escape HEV also seems to drop fast to half a tank, but I still manage to get approx. 400-420 miles out of a tank.
Ave mpg: 30-34 with mixed LA city driving.
7300 miles now and ave of 60 miles per day.
6 years ago
Tim, yes I bought it new and have about 800 miles now.I haven't seen any other FEH's on the road in FL,. The built date was 1/19/05 on my unit.
Ben, I bet we'll find the same with all FEH's gas gauges.
My last fill up I got 37.1 MPG combo but I drove it in elec. as much as I could without being a pain if someone was behind me. I also find that the FEH likes 40 - 45 MPH in the gas mode for best MPG (40-41 average). BTW, the 37.1 was a reading from the pump, not computer. The jury is still out on how accurate the computer is. I assume you have the FWD as I do.
South Florida is alot warmer than most places, so engine temp lets me go to elec. quicker and longer. But Max A/C will get me in the summer.
6 years ago
Have just over 4400 miles on our FEH at this point. Driving it is not very different from our 2002 Prius, though it takes a lighter foot to keep it in "stealth" mode.
The gas gauge is not as inaccurate as some Prius ones I've seen...it is about as good as the one on my last Ford product (1993 Explorer). I have not had the guts to take it down low enough to require more than an 11 to 12 gallon fillup, so I'm not getting as much range as some others. 4WD and cool weather and E10 fuel are not helping any. Last tank the computer reported 28.3 while I calculated 27.33 MPG.
6 years ago
Changing the oil:
I use pennzoil SAE 5W-20 and found I get better gas mileage in my Explorer V8 and Ranger V6. What happen was I couldn't find the Motocraft oil and seen no reason that pennzoil would be ok to use, so I tried it.
Anyone have an opinion on this because I thinking of using pennzoil in the FEH also.
6 years ago
I think you guys will find that when it comes to internal combustion engines, driving in the highest gear at the lowest RPM's (usually about 1500 RPM's in overdrive) will result in the most fuel efficient operation, and usually is between 40-45 mph. Modern engines do have a cut-off though; if you drop below 40 mph, the electronics will force you into the next gear down. Also, if you dig into the pedal too much, it will also gear you down.
6 years ago
Hi guys.
Your Escape hybrids do not really have any gear changes in the transmission. The trans is a single planetary gear set sharing power from the engine and generator and providing it to the shaft that the traction motor and wheels are driven off of. As for high and low gear it is just a matter of how the generator is loading that planetary which in turn determines how much engine torque goes to the wheels. Because of this there is no real gearshifts or truly a neutral. It is all simulated by how the generator and traction motor are controlled.
To get a little extra bite in electric mode off of the starting line Ford has modified the design from what Toyota has so the generator can assist with launching the vehicle thus giving you two electric motors to power the wheels for a short amount of time.
As for the fuel gage, more than likely due the body structures the fuel tank has to wrap around on the top half of the tank is probably smaller than the bottom. So it appears that the first half the tank goes quicker. Most tanks either use a float or some other level sensor that measure linearly the amount of fuel in the tank and not the true volume.
I have heard that there were some issues in the past with the standard Escape ignition switches. You should have it looked at and replaced.
The motor noise you are hearing when braking is the motor using regeneration. The vehicle is using the traction motor to slow down the vehicle thus using the motor as a generator and is putting energy back into the batteries via your braking wheels.
Hope this sheds a little light for you all.
6 years ago
Thanks Dave
One point that keeps coming up is about having a way to plug-in and charge the Hybrids to top off the battery. I find that the computer doesn't let the battery get very low before the engine kicks on and starts recharging. I drive in elec. as much as I can and find by the time the engine warms up (1-2 miles in FL.) you've got a full enough charge to start running in the normal cycle of charge and running on elec. Up North, the engine must even run longer to warm up so you should have a full charge after that.
The way the FEH is set up, I see no need for a plug.
Thoughts?
6 years ago
A couple comments from the guy who owns one (tm).
1. Oil. If you buy non-Motorcraft oil make sure the label says it complies with the Ford specification. I don't remember all the digits, but the critical last 4 digits are 930-A. There was a previous spec which was different, and even some old stock Motorcraft didn't meet the new spec. This spec appears to be new for 2005 model year vehicles.
2. Optimal speeds. On the highway best mileage appears to come in the 55-65 MPH range (no big surprise). In town driving on level ground I get do wonders at 35. When running the gas engine, the computer will rev it to whatever RPM it thinks will provide the cleanest emissions and best efficiency. My advice is don't try to second guess it...
6 years ago
Steve, I guessed the pure base oil which pennzoil has a 5W-20 was what was causing the better MPG (1-2) over the WSS-M2C153-H Premium Synthetic Blend Motorcraft Oil. Both were rated the same as far as SPI standards (ILSAC GF3, API SL etc.) which the manual recommended. I checked both Pennzoil and Motorcraft websites and found no updated Motorcraft 5W20 oil. On the other hand, I did find a new pennzoil rating on their New 5W-20 synthetec and pure base to include the new ILSAC GF4 rating. Could it be Ford is now updating its requirements (part Number) to include the new GF4 rating? Also I see the FEH has an all new oil filter FL 2017-A. I use only Motorcraft filters.
Have you seen a quart of Motorcraft 5W-20 which has the new Ford Specs? Does it include the new GF4 rating?
Thanks
6 years ago
There is a long thread over at Escape Central about the new Motorcraft oil. At AutoZone I purchased a quart which has the old spec on it, but at an unnamed megastore I found a quart with the 930-A spec.
Mobil 1 website quotes their new 5w20 as 930-A and GF-4 compliant, and their 5w30 as 929-A and GF-4 compliant. This implies 930-A and GF-4 are not interchangeable terms.
The Escape Hybrid manual most certainly states one should use 930-A spec oil.
6 years ago
Steve, I agree with sticking to Fords specs and Motorcraft is Ford. Looks like I'll be making trips to Palm Beach Lincoln Mercury Parts Dept. to buy (order) oil filters, oil, O rings, air filters, etc. I don't think to much on a FEH will come off the shelf for awhile here in Florida. If for some chance they can't get the 930-A oil, I will use the pennzoil 5W-20 which is available now in stores with the GF-4 rating. I did not see Mobil 1 5W20 in any stores around here, only the 5W30. Pennzoil states on the label it meets all Ford and Honda 2001 or newer requirements.
6 years ago
930-A is a new spec for 2005.
Pennzoil Synthetic and Conventional (yellow bottle) 5w20 both claim to meet 930-A.
Ironically, the "SUV, Truck and Minivan" product makes no such claim.
6 years ago
I went to pick up a few oil filters at the main Ford Parts Distributor for dealerships in South Florida today. They had no 930-A oil and didn't care to offer to look into it. They had a case of twelve oil filters which list for $11.47 and net for$6.71 each. These look like gas filters and must be placed inside a canister that has an o-ring that Ford recommends changing also. They had no o-rings, so I ordered two with a list price of $9.13 and net at $5.34 each. If you pick these up at a dealership, you will pay list. BTW, the sales clerk looked up the price to replace the battery, he just said $7200.00, I don't know if that was list or not.
My goal is to buy the shop manuals and do the easy maintenance myself. I know Ford techs had to get special training to work on Hybrid, but I don't know that a dealership would just let any oil change monkey do that work. I don't want to be their first victim myself.
Can someone tell me how there getting there oil changed... Price.... Etc. Thanks
6 years ago
This is the same oil filter system Volvo has been using since 1999/2000. However, from the cross-reference table on the Wix website it appears they used a different part. That's a shame because the Volvo filter is readily available at reasonable prices, and it includes the o-ring.
Another owner quoted that he paid $55 for an air filter. This is rediculous!
6 years ago
Steve, you had said that the computer showed better mpg than the calculation you got at the fill up. I tested my computer (last 15 min.) this past week. I drove 178.3 miles on a topped off tank while not letting that last 15 minute reading drop below 40mpg and it didn't get over 43mpg average reading. I topped it off today with 4.429 gallons which gave me 40.25mpg. I stayed off I-95 and kept it under 50mph. Your reading and my reading are almost the same as far as the computer difference.
Here are the things I did to get that mileage:
1) Slow acceleration tring to get electric motor only as close to 35mpg as posible before gas engine kicked in. Because about 80% of the time there is someone behind you, I only get to about 10mph so I'm not a pain to other drivers.
2) On my FEH, 40mph is the breaking point where the engine will always run. So below 40mph I can tap the brakes and shut the engine off as long as there is enough battery to run on elec. Same thing is true if I am going down a bridge on elec, if I get over 40mph, the engine will start up.
3) I run trips from Jupiter to West Palm Beach (15 miles) and most of the time I take my time and drive along the beach where the speed limits are 30 - 45mph. The speed control works better and stays at the setting better than any I've seen. I get up to 35mph and tap the brakes to go on elec. and set the speed control between 31 - 33mph. The engine will start back up when the battery needs recharging.
4) Watch for red lights or slow traffic and kick the engine off ASAP. The FEH coast alot better than most cars. I try not to come to a complete stop when I can.
6 years ago
Gary's 4th point is one I've found to be very useful... when approaching stop signs and red lights I always coast in. These potential periods of coasting, which can account for lots of local mileage, are a key to achieving good mileage.
Its amazing how the computer and the instant data have made me so much more aware of the operation of my car. In the past with just rpm and mph we were in the dark about crucial components of our cars performance.
6 years ago
Yep, all those things help. There are subtle differences between the Prius and the Escape but the same tricks work for both. I think the differences can be put down to the weight difference of the two vehicles.
6 years ago
From what I can tell from the computer, backing off the high revs and letting the ECVT adjust to overdrive makes a big difference in gas mileage also. I forgot that was also in my program to get better gas mileage.
I just experienced grabing brakes in the rain that others have reported. Its there for sure and Ford must deal with this problem in the near future. I think it is in the regenerative brakes myself. Sounds and feels like it is only in the front brakes anyway.
Steering ease is better than my explorer and about the same as my 1999 Lincoln Navigator was, great.
There is more than enough power for racing those other SUV's on the road if you feel the need to make them look foolish.
For some reason, I had a hard time going on elec. only for once. I was using a cell phone charger in the DC plug. After I unpluged the charger, the problem went away. Anyone else had this problem?
Got my o-rings today for the oil canister, glad it didn't take long. Shop manual list for $165 BTW.
6 years ago
This is the third time I've smelled electrical burning in my FEH. First time about three weeks ago a strong smell with the windows down for about 3 or 4 minutes. At first, I thought it was coming from a car in front of me but it continued when I turn and went in another direction. A shorter smell came back a few days later. Thurday this week it came back very heavy smelling like a burned up electrical motor. It was very toxic and stronger this time, came on real quick and cause beathing problems the rest of the day. I was in heavy traffic so by the time I could get to the shoulder it started going away. I thought the car was on fire and would be destroyed. No smoke, no malfunctions as of yet. It did seem like it was coming from behind the dash.
The FEH runs great otherwise with my last fill-up giving me 40.2 MPG. I do drain the battery and charge it right after continuously as part of my driving habits to get the best MPG.
I know this problem should be looked at by the dealer but there are no other problems. The dealer will not find anything untill something happens while the escape is driven by them and that would be rare. Any suggestions?
6 years ago
Finally got a set of factory repair manuals for my FEH. For those who don't know where to find them, check out "helminc.com". They're very expensive at that site but I found them on EBay alot cheaper. I got a complete set of 5 for $111.00. These retail for $370.00, I got lucky. This included Vol. 1 and 2 Escape/Mariner/Escape Hybrid WORKSHOP MANUALS, Hybrid Powertrain/Emissions Diagnosis, 2005 Wiring Diagrams for Escape-Mariner and a 2005 Escape Hybrid Wiring Diagram Manual.
My thinking was this car will cost alot more in repairs than the non-Hybrids. The more I can do will save me money and keep the dealership honest when I need to get service or repair from them.
Changing the oil filter, air filter, battery cooling filter, O-rings, strange noises, trouble shooting are all included in these manuals. Everything from body parts, drivetrain, Servicing, tools needed, removal of engine parts, are all there. Bumper to bumper I can now see what the Ford Mechanics will look at to repair my FEH. This will be a costly endeavor to keep the FEH Serviced and maintained. If I can do any of them, these manuals will pay for themselfs and more.
For a vehical like the FEH, I recomend this if you can do maintenance on non-hybrid vehicles. It could save big bucks.
6 years ago
I was at the Ford Dealership today and they now have the 5-20W oil with the new FEH 30-A specs and it does have the new GF-4 rating. I now have over 6,000 miles on my FEH so I'll change the oil in the next few days and post any problems.
Also, just did a 500 mile trip on I-95 for the first time. With four adults packed with coolers and supplies and the A/C on (FWD FEH), I averaged 30.5 MPG. The 15 min average stayed at around 32 MPG and it was raining most of the drive. On the return trip, I tried drafting behind a tractor trailer. I reset the computer while behind the truck and my 15 min. average stayed at 37 - 38 MPG in the rain.
Very happy with my FEH, I can get 30.5 - 40.25 MPG depending how and where I drive here in Florida.
6 years ago
First oil and filter change at 6,627 miles. The manual also says change the O-ring on the filter cap which I did.
The FEH is high enough so I did not need a ramp. The oil filter was easy to get to (right in front of the engine). Check your oil just before changing it, mine was at the min. level. Here are the steps I took:
1. With a 6mm alan wrench, I removed the alum. drain plug on the bottom of the filter. Just a little oil came out at this point .
2. Used the smaller oil filter wrench to remove the plastic filter cap. I had to place a rag between the wrench and filter cap to grip and turn the cap. Because of the O-ring, I had to use the wrench to turn the cap till it was separated from the housing. Also, after a few turns, the oil began to pour from the cap drain. The filter is located away from other engine and body parts so oil doesn't run everywhere.
3. With the cap off, the filter remained stuck up in the housing but pulled away easy. I removed the old O-ring with a pick very easy and cleaned the cap. Put a coat of oil on the new O-ring and it slipped on the cap very easy. I screwed the cap drain plug back into the cap while it was off.
4. The new filter can go in on either end. I slid the new filter on the cap and screwed it into the housing. Because of the O-ring, you must use the filter wrench and rag to screw the filter cap back on.
5. Oil pan drain plug is 13mm and easy to get to and drain the oil. The oil fill is easy to get to and fill with 4 1/2 qts. of Motorcraft 5-20w 930-A oil. Start the engine and let it warm up a little. Kill the engine and check the stick to see where 4 1/2 qts reads on the stick. Mine was half between max. and min. so I know I did not have 4 1/2 qts. before I started at the min. line.
Cost - Filter $11.47
O-ring $ 9.13
Oil ($3qt)$15.00
Total $35.60 plus tax
Hope this helps you determine if you want the dealer to change it for you or not. I had all the tools already and get a discount (filter-$6.71 O-ring-$5.34) on parts. I store oil in a five gallon water bottle and take it to Jiffy Lube for recycle at no cost.
Does anyone have a dealer price?
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