Top 7 Issues for an Electric Car Conversion
Published June 2, 2009
Yank out the engine. Install a motor, converter and batteries. And off you go in your electric car. But wait. There are issues to consider. (Photo by: EVHelp.com.)
Consumers eager to get behind the wheel of an electric car have experienced crushing disappointment for many years. But now, they may finally have their chance. Major auto companies—like Ford, Chevy and Nissan—plan to roll out the next generation of practical, affordable plug-in cars in 2011 or 2012. Niche players like Tesla, Fisker, and Miles are also hitting the market.
But what if you can’t wait two or three years for an EV? Or if you don’t have deep enough pockets for a Tesla? What if you don’t believe car companies' press releases? There’s an answer for those skeptics and impatient souls: An electric car conversion. But be prepared for major compromises to test the limits of your skepticism and impatience.
A Test of Patience
“It all depends on how eager you are,” said Steve Lough, president of the Seattle Electric Vehicle Association. In fact, Lough—who has been active in promoting electric cars for almost 30 years—is anguishing over the decision to convert now or wait it out. Fellow Seattle EV association members are encouraging Lough to convert his first-generation Honda Insight into an all-electric car, but he’s got his heart set on the new Nissan EV scheduled for release in 2011.
Steve Lough, president of the Seattle Electric Vehicle Association, with actor and environmental activist Ed Begley Jr. Lough advises that the decision to do an electric conversion comes down to how urgent you are to get behind the wheel of an EV.
“Quite frankly, I’m on the fence. Do I spend $25,000 on a used converted Honda or $30,000 on a new Nissan?” pondered Lough in an interview with HybridCars.com. As the previous owner of five electric vehicles, Lough is well aware of the tradeoffs when it comes to driving range, warranties, battery replacements, and safety issues. “It all comes down to the urgency. Conversions can work and be less expensive than a new car, but it’s not a new car.”
Mark Hazen, of Florida-based EVHelp.com, also has his eyes wide open regarding the pros and cons of electric car conversions. His website provides extensive reference material and hands-on guidelines for backyard tinkerers doing EV conversions. “I am an EV advocate, but I’m also realist,” he said. “I’m not one of the EV advocates that will snow you, and talk only about all the wonderful things about it. I’m also going to tell you the negative things, and let you make an intelligent decision for yourself.” Hazen believes that some people will go forward—even after knowing about the extra costs and drawbacks—mostly motivated by a desire to be green, and for the sheer joy of driving a silent gas-free electric car that draws attention and admiration from friends and passers-by.
Cost is a major factor, according to Mike Moore, who runs South Carolina-based Ampmobile Conversions, with his wife Paula. The husband and wife team converts five or six vehicles per year for its customers. “The Chevy Volt is going to cost about $40,000, but a conversion costs about $15,000,” said Moore. “Until the car companies can get the prices under control, people will want conversions. It’s going to be like that for quite a while.” Moore sees dramatic interest in conversions from all across the country. His customer list includes people from Texas to New Jersey.
After speaking with Lough, Hazen and Moore, we identified these 7 key issues in your decision-making process.
1Choose A Donor Car
The Chevy S10 pickup is a common vehicle used for electric car conversions. This one was converted by Ampmobile Conversions. Ampmobile's Mike Moore said, "If you are trying to maximize driving range, go with a small pickup that has room for all the batteries."
To state the obvious, you’ll need a donor car to use as the basis for your conversion. The gasoline engine will be entirely removed and replaced with a motor, controller, and lots of batteries. Nearly any four-cylinder manual transmission vehicle can work, but you’ll probably want to use a model that others have converted many times before. In this way, your electric wheels won’t need to re-invented. Moore recommends using an affordable compact car, like a Chevy Aveo, Geo Metro, or Honda Civic, if economics and efficiency are your top concern. If you are trying to maximize driving range, go with a small pickup that has room for all the batteries. A Chevy S10 or Ford Ranger are common choices.
If you have your heart set on your exotic electric dream car, nearly any car can work. But each level of complexity and uniqueness requires more time and consideration—and therefore probably adds cost. It’s not impossible to do a conversion from an automatic transmission,” said Hazen. “It just wastes energy and is not practical.”
The extensive database of electric cars—mostly conversions—at EValbum.com can serve as an informal shopping guide. The site is searchable by make, model, components, and location. Each entry provides the basics of how the vehicle was converted.
2Calculate Costs
The cost of doing an electric car conversion (DC system) on your own, according to our three experts, is between $8,000 and $11,000—not including the donor car. If you hire a company to do the conversion, expect to spend in the range of $12,000 and $18,000, including all the necessary parts and labor. There are reports of electric car conversion as high as $25,000, but anything above $20,000 is price gouging.
It’s hard to get more specific about costs, because there’s a broad range of issues to consider: the specific vehicle being converted, the quantity and technology of the batteries, the drive system, and the quality of the work and rates charged by the conversion company.
Moore said there’s virtually no maintenance, especially if you make sure that cables are tight and secure. Lough said the electricity costs are only about $100 to $200 per year, although Hazen warns that the common figure of $0.02 per mile is overused and exaggerated, and that after all utility costs and efficiencies are considered, the price per mile is closer to $0.05 to $0.07.
The only “gotcha” is the cost of replacing the car’s battery pack. Today’s electric car conversions, almost without exception, use lead acid batteries, which will last approximately two to five years. The cost to replace the pack, depending on the number of batteries, will range between $2,000 and $5,000.
3Make Technology Decisions: Batteries and Electric System
Despite all the buzz about lithium ion batteries, and the proven success of nickel metal hydride in today’s hybrid gas-electric cars, you should expect your converted EV to run on lead acid batteries. It’s simply too hard to find reliable and affordable lithium or nickel batteries. Moore has tested lithium ion batteries, loves how they react, but can’t promise that they will last long enough to make them cost-effective at this time. In terms of various lead acid batteries, the group strongly recommends Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) batteries over flooded cell, which require monitoring and maintenance.
With lead acid batteries, expect overnight charging times of approximately six to eight hours.
Given the limited energy and power of lead acid batteries, and rudimentary or non-existent battery management systems, a DC system is recommended. An AC system, which requires an inverter-controller (and provides the capacity for regenerative braking), will add as much as $5,000 more to the conversion—and is therefore considered too costly for the benefits. Although Moore thinks it’s more strictly a matter of cost. He believes going from DC to AC is like going from six-cylinder to an eight-cylinder gas car. “If you have the money,” he said, “I believe the AC system is the best bet because of its advantages.” Faster performance and the ability for regenerative braking are the chief advantages of an AC system.
4Consider Major Technical Hurdle: Battery Weight
An example of the information you can find on EVAlbum.com: Mike Casey of Mountain View, Cal. converted his 1991 Geo Metro into Bluie,” an electric car. He writes, “This car is very fun to drive and very reliable. People are amazed when I give them a test drive.” Casey drives in third gear from about 0 to 60 mph, and says that Bluie will burn rubber in first gear and reverse. Casey installed a new bank of batteries after his old set of “Marine SMR 31s” died after only 1,000 miles. The seven new batteries (right) are bolted down with a metal rod, and then tucked away under a cover and the back seat.
“There are no technical challenges whatsoever on the motors, controllers and chargers,” said Lough. “It’s all been perfected 20 years ago.” Perhaps the biggest technical challenge is finding a place for a thousand or more pounds of batteries. “The hardest part is figuring out where to move the weight around the car. We remove a lot of weight by taking the engine out,” said Moore. “You have to put some in the front and some in the back to get it as close to original as possible, so it will drive right.” He warns that putting too much weight in the rear, and the front “is going to go all over the place.” Put too much in the back and it’ll be hard to steer.
5Confront Limited Range & Speed
The limited range of converted electric cars remains a major issue. Steve Lough is very upfront with perspective EV owners who will accept nothing less than 50 or 60 miles of range. “I tell them, ‘I don’t think this is going to work for you.’” While the driving range between charges can be as high as 50 miles, Hazen make it clear that you don’t want to run your batteries all the way down to zero state of charge. That will significantly decrease the life of your batteries, and besides, it’s scary to not know if you are going to make it back home. In driving in Central Florida, Hazen says, “Lead acid batteries will take you down the freeway maybe one exit, and then you have to find a place to get off and charge up.”
So, while converted EVs are commonly capable of 65 to 70 mph, driving at that speed will quickly drain your batteries. “It takes a lot of energy to run at that speed,” Hazen said. “Lead acid is really not for freeway use. But for around town, on streets at 40 mph, you can go a long way. That’s where the longer range numbers come in.”
6Shop for Conversion Companies
If you are sold on the economic, environmental, and energy benefits of an electric car conversion, but don’t want to get your hands dirty, there are dozens of companies across the country that will do the work for you. But how do you find a good one? Steve Lough recommends going through your friendly local electric auto association. In one fell swoop, you’ll get advice and referrals from dozens of local folks who have already been through the process.
Beyond that, common sense prevails. Check the background of the company owners, and get a long list of previous customers. Then call them, and try to arrange a time to see—and ride in—their work. Hazen suggests that you determine “if the work is neat, clean, and well thought-out.” Moore adds, “Don’t be afraid to check references and do research. With the Internet, it’s easy to see if a company has complaints.”
7Pass Up on Conversion Kits
The most common advertisement on the web is for “electric car conversion kits.” But our three experts agree that the kits will only get you so far. The panel agrees that no kit is complete and comprehensive. Even if you buy a kit designed for a specific vehicle, there are likely to be a number of small components and pieces that you’ll need to get on your own. Moore said, “I like to call it a component package—not a step by step set of instructions with everything you need. Most do not include batteries or chargers.” He also warns to be suspicious of the driving range and max speed that many kit providers promise. Hazen, a do-it-yourselfer, thinks it’s a lot cheaper to buy the components yourself. Basically, you are paying somebody a big premium to assemble the basic components into one package. Of course, if you are using a conversion company, a kit won’t help you.
As you can see, with a little commitment and a fair amount of cash, an electric car could be in your immediate future. Do not pass go. Do not collect $200. Go directly to emissions- and petroleum-free EV.
More Electric Car Conversion Resources
For more information about electric car conversions, check out these websites:
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Evalbum
You’ll have a blast clicking through the web’s unofficial photo album of the EV community.
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Electric Auto Association
The mission of the national non-profit, formed in 1967, is to promote adoption of EVs. Their website includes a list of chapters across the country.
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Electro Automotive
The web’s most comprehensive online store for electric car conversion kits and accessories. They’ve been in business for 30 years and they know their stuff.
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Evtransportal
Tons of links about EVs.
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EVFinder.com
Long list of links to converters and EV parts suppliers.
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Evhelp.com
Mark Hazen’s website provides detailed technical info for hands-on folks ready to complete a conversion.
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Plug In America
If you’re interested in the advocacy and legislative aspect of EV ownership, check out the website for Plug In America, a non-profit coalition of electric car drivers.
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Shopping Guide for Electric Cars
Check out HybridCars.com’s definitive guide to electric cars. It provides basic explanations of the benefits and features of electric cars, and a comprehensive list of EVs headed to the marketplace.
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Wow... the article convinced me to drop the idea of a conversion. Guess I'll have to track down a dealership in Michigan willing to get me a hybrid Altima after all!
If someone seriously wants an affordable EV, there is Peapod and Wheego, but you can use it only for local shopping or for commuting if your office is very near.
But on the Hybrid front, there is some good news.
In May-2009, 25000 + Hybrid vehicles were sold, this will slowly give rise to Plugins and finally EV's.
As usual Toyota Prius is the best seller topping 10,000 units, Fusion and Insight Hybrids are also picking up.
I don't think I would trust a conversion kit. Car companies put their technology through rigorous testing to guarantee it is durability. I don't think you can compare an EV released by Nissan or Honda with a simple conversion kit, it just wouldn't be surprised if a conversion kit started giving you trouble after a couple years...
Good article, except........ it does not acknowledge the coming of LiFe cells. Lithium promises higher reliability, longer life, less maintenance, and longer ranges than lead. It will be a couple of years before lithium is well proven in EVs, but experience is being gained daily. And currently it looks VERY good. Here is my lithium EV:
http://www.evalbum.com/2314
BTW, the highest volume converter in the USA is Wayne Alexander of EVBlue in Kansas. His conversion count is now about 100.
http://ev-blue.com/
You can also get a Prius and have it converted to a Plug-In Hybrid for between $7 and $15 depending on the vendor. At 3ProngPower we have a version that can act as an EV with 35 mile range and a top speed of 50mph but can also be driven as a blended mode plug-in hybrid at freeway speeds for as long as the gas tank will take you.
What a great article! I think this really covers the reality of converting a vehicle. I completed my first conversion last summer and have been driving it every since. It is not something to be entered into lightly. One must be able to understand the electrical details as well as a good mechanical understand of how cars are designed and built. For most of us that means a network of people to call on when help is required.
My feeling is the electric vehicles need to be viewed not as electric vs. gas but more as a purpose built vehicle. (Think Ford Mustang) I built mine with the explicit purpose of commuting to work. If you have the purpose that fits within the bounds of the technology that is available to the masses them go forward and convert. If you are trying to replace a 'go anywhere, do anything' gas powered vehicle then you need to wait for the big automotive companies to make them. As individuals we just don't have the resources or technology they do.
My two cents worth and thanks again for the nice article.
I think it's interesting that a car with a manual transmission is a better candidate than an automatic for conversion... go manual transmissions!! Usually when I think of EVs I think of no transmission at all...
I got to this article via a post to the EVDL by Steve Lough. I’ve been into EV’s for ten years, and between a family of four, we’ve driven over 50,000 EV miles in an S10 and RX-7. For the most part, I thought the article is a good primer, but wanted to note a few things:
Regarding the cost for electricity, I have a dedicated KWHr meter on the S10, and over the life of the last pack of floodies, it was $0.04/mile, so a car could indeed be $0.02/mile. Keep in mind I’m in Colorado on a rural grid, so electricity cost here is on the low side. Also, having gotten 20,000 miles out of that pack, it came out to be $0.1/mile for the pack cost.
I’ve been running AGM’s in the RX-7, and take exception to their recommendation, as the cost of AGM batteries over floodies is quite high, not to mention that the sealed AGM’s require individual chargers, like I use, or a BMS.
I think the comment about an AC system having “Faster performance” is wrong. If you look at what the NEDRA.com racers use, DC rules!
On the speed and range comments, I live in a small town, and must get on a 55-60 mph highway in order to visit neighboring towns. Although I believe this requires a minimum of 144 volts of batteries, it is doable, and I could go 50 to 60 miles per charge with the S10 floodies, without hurting them.
Regarding the pics that are included, the EVHelp truck should have some floodies under the hood for better weight distribution, and the remainder between the frame rails for better handling. The Ampmobile S10 should have the floodies in boxes, which keeps the dirt off and eliminates acid mist, so the only maintenance is adding distilled water.
One last thing, regarding the EVHelp site, I disagree with the comment about using a single charger on a string of floodies not being ideal, under the 22-month evaluation link. It depends on the charger, and my Zivan NG3 is one of the reasons I got 20,000 miles out of a pack!
Thanks for your time, and Suck Amps,
Battery Boy
Thanks for the informative and interesting article. I had no idea it was so complicated.
All I leared was that like the Hybrids and every other car on the market, they are NEVER affordable to the people who NEED them the most. Those who drive over an hour to work at a low paying job to eat. I have to drive 40 miles a day for a lousy 10.00 an hour job. I will NEVER be able to buy any HYBRID, ELECTRIC, or EV friendly car. GM would be in business today if they realized and made at least ONE vehicle the lower income people could afford to buy. My price range has always been under 10,000.00 so I end up with old used vehicles I pay payments on for 5 years cause I can't afford to fix the older ones when they break down and the new cars are 400.00 a month over what I can afford to pay per month.
Wake UP american car makers and MAKE it affordable for the MASSES. Most of us suffer deciding wheather to pay a bill or EAT!
Date : June 09, 2009
Please be informed that, I am glad to know that your technology can convert any car into electricity. I have been trying to do business since June 2008 after resigned from my job like agent of exporters and importers but now all want to do business directly other than through an agent and did not find anything yet but I believe your technology will bring fortune for me. So please cooperate me to implement this system in our country because most of the vehicles are run by (COMPRESSED NATURAL GAS) CNG and fuel. So if we both can do good business as you know our country is not rich and can't effort fuel in high cost other side our gas is not sufficient. I hope to get your answer and support to implement this system in our country.
Regards.
S.M. Fozlul Reza
Dhaka, Bangladesh
email : tsl@zipbd.com
Great story! Hits all the main issues except one: under what circumstances are such vehicles eligible for the new federal 10% tax credit (up to a base of $40,000, for a maximum credit of $4,000). We're hoping to hear of peoples' experiences on that, and we are beginning to work on delivering the message that conversions that displace as much energy as new vehicles should have an equalized credit up to the $7,500 available for new plug-ins.
Within a few years (maybe sooner, we hope), it may be possible also to convert gas guzzlers into plug-in hybrids. There are currently a handful of prototypes out there (see our page on the subject at http://www.calcars.org/ice-conversions.html ) and we're keeping track of the new companies that are jumping into this area.
-- Felix Kramer, Founder, The California Cars Initiative
True there are many challenges to converting any vehicle to electric. Presenting the challenges only as barriers, one can only believe this article is heavily biased in favor of letting detroit figure it out instead of good old fashioned ingenuity and invention by the masses.
I appreciate all of the comments that readers have provided in response to this article. Yes, the article sounds very negative and intentionally so. Don't get me wrong, I love my EV and will always have one. If you want one too, it's very important that you know the bad with the good to make your decision to go for a conversion.
You will always find those who sugar-coat the conversion experience. Some of those people also make a living at selling the components.
To continue the reality check on EV conversion, I have written a companion article to this one titled: 'Speed Traps for the Beginner'. It's on the home page of evhelp.com.
You will find a lot of good information on evhelp.com, with both the good and bad. I even show you how to determine the real cost per mile to drive your EV.
Visit and enjoy!
Dave,
I am replying to you directly because you had so many comments. There are only a couple things that I would correct from your observations. I can't address comments made by the other experts who were interviewed for this article - only mine.
I am interested to know how much you actually pay for electricity including all line items related to quantity of energy usage. It costs us about 12 cents per kWhr here in Marion County Florida. As you know, that has a big impact on the cost per mile.
Your range of 50 to 60 miles without hurting your batteries is really amazing. Please share with us how you do that. Certainly, that will be valuable information for all of us.
You commented on the picture of my S10 and the batteries behind the cab, saying there should be some batteries under the hood for balance. Actually, the configuration you see in the photo is nearly a perfect balance for all tires. There is only a 50 lb difference back to front. However, I now have 24 batteries behind the cab, making it much heavier in the rear. Even so, there is no handling problem and not even the slightest indication of rolling when I turn a corner. That could be because I drive it like a regular street vehicle and not a race car. For racing, my batteries need to be lowered and the weight needs to be distributed better. I don't race.
You also commented that the batteries should be in boxes. Actually, in the finished vehicle the batteries are in a nice ventilated compartment that keeps the batteries clean and well ventilated to reduce heat accumulation during use and charging. I know its hard to see or know these details from just photos.
As far as acid misting is concerned, I haven't had any since the new batteries were installed in October last year. The batteries are staying very clean and I have had to add very little distilled water since then.
You mentioned a certain brand of Bulk charger that you have used to give your batteries long life. That's great. Unfortunately, not many people have such a good experience with their batteries. Of course there are countless reasons for that.
I tried bulk charging with the first set of batteries and found that the batteries very quickly started to take on their own personalities with as much as a 1 V difference in battery terminal voltages. I had to use brute force over-charging in an attempt to bring them back in line, which was never fully successful - not to mention the mess that over-charging makes. There is a second problem that a single bulk charger, no matter how good, is not able to address - battery replacement. I lost a few batteries from terminal melt-downs (my bad) and shorted plates. If you replace the older batteries with new ones and only have a bulk charger to charge the entire string, the newer batteries will happily charge very quickly and starve out the others. A bulk charger can't do anything about this.
I am now using distributed charging and on longer have any of the above problems, not even acid misting or the need for brute-force over-charging. After 9 months, all batteries are charging equally and are staying balanced. A distributed charging system is also a battery management system. A bulk charger can't do that.
So getting back to how you did it for 20,000 miles on a bulk charger is a real mystery. Are you also using some form of battery management and some form of desulfation. If so, please share that with us.
Thanks Dave.
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